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Alternate method for applying Bias Facing by Leana K.

1. Start pinning the folded bias. You want to make sure the cut edges match the cut neck edge in width, but it’s going to pucker. That extra fabric needs to be eased in. The outside of the circle needs to be larger than the inside.

 2. Pin the fold line around. Sometimes this is helpful on a piece of cardboard or a pressing ham. Stab the needle in at the very edge of the fold, curving the bias as you go, then gently lift and secure the pin into position.

 3. Pinned all around. The bias should be able to lay flat and smooth at the fold line. If it’s puckering or pulling there, you’ll need more. If the shirt is puckering, you’ll need more length. The only folds you should see are the cut edge of the bias.

4. Carefully sew your 1/2" seam allowance (or the seam allowance in your pattern). Remove your pin just before you’re about to sew over it. Trim 1/8" away from the sewn edge or grade that seam if your fabric is thick (cut each seam allowance a slightly different width).  Fold carefully back to the inside and press. It should lay perfectly flat here.
5. Using an edgestitch foot, sew in your bias right at the folded edge. I move my needle position over. Make sure your tension is good or you’ll end up with puckers at this stage.
6. Finished bias facing!  The trick is really remembering that the bias fold at the beginning has to have its fullest circle and be flat so it can eventually turn in. That’s why I pin the fold directly.